How to apply a varnish
Most paints are now made of synthetic resins - alkyd, phenolic, vinyl or urethane - that dry quickly enough to form a hard surface that resists wear rough. Alkyd resins are the best for the work of the unit. Phenolic compounds, often called spar varnish, we are mainly used for outdoor. Polyurethanes are extremely hard and better for situations of wear such as floors and bar tops. Vinyls are soft and wont rub well. Avoid them and by all means, do not buy a cheap varnish. A cheap notes will never lead to a good long finish.
BRUSHING LACQUER
Although brushing is the most difficult of all brush, with practice you can master the technique. Rub and polish can eliminate most blemishes and help achieve a good finish despite less-than-perfect brush. Varnish must be routed on a surface with a brush with thin, even coats. It is important to have a good brush for painting. There are specially designed brushes or use a varnish. If workers inexperienced in applying nail follow the instructions in their first jobs, they will soon qualify for work.Instructions precision brushing varnishes are as follows:
1. Never paint in wet weather or on surfaces that are not completely dry.
2. The room and varnishes should be 70 degrees F or more. If the room is colder than 70 degrees, you can put the unopened in hot water for about an hour before using box.
3. Surfaces must be completely free of dust. Wipe with a clean, lint, and remove dust from cracks etc. with a clean, dry brush and wipe cloth again. Finally wipe with a tack cloth to remove any dust or lint before applying the varnish.
4. Never shake varnish before removing the cover. This will cause the formation of small bubbles that will be detrimental to a smooth coat. Hold the can in his hand and rotate slowly back and forth to mix the paint. After some of the varnish has been removed from the box, place the lid loose on the box to prevent evaporation.
5. Varnish hardens quickly. When it thickens to a point where it does not flow easily from the brush, it should be diluted as directed on the label. Be sure it is well mixed.
6. A brush should be prepared for use before starting work by dipping into the varnish and work back and forth on its own to distribute the varnish evenly through hair document.
7. Never dip the brush in the paint more than a third of its length and apply liberally with a minimum of brush strokes. Not remove excess coating from the brush bristles by dragging through the flange of the box. This will cause bubbles to form in the varnish and it will be almost impossible to get a smooth finish. Instead of using a cup or a small can to remove excess polish before applying it to the surface
8. When brushing coating, apply only a moderate amount of pressure on the handle. Do not bend the bristles. Apply with parallel lines, against the brush-stroke immediately perpendicular to the original direction. Finish by rubbing lightly with hair, using a dry brush and work almost in parallel to the grain only. This eliminates brush strokes and will produce a uniform surface appearance. The first coat of paint should be brushed with very thin coats and later should not be sent out.
9. On horizontal surfaces, the paint is put on very little brush. Betting on a single area of about 6-8 inches at a time, working from the unfinished to the finished surface and taking about two strokes. Then hold the brush up, going slightly over the surface to smooth and eliminate bubbles.
10. On vertical surfaces, the procedure is different to avoid the hollow on the finish line. Work an area of about 6 square inches. Use short, quick strokes and other surface by brushing halfway and halfway if the brush is lifted from the surface in the central part e.
DRYING painted area
In any case, a painted surface should be rubbed with any type of abrasive until it is completely dry. If the surface is rubbed until it is completely dry, the result will be disastrous. For best results, please follow these instructions to drought.
1. For best results, the first thin layer should be given a minimum drying time of 24 hours, 48 hours for the second and 3 to 5 days for the third and final layer.
2. Test with a thumbnail to check the hardness. If the test is difficult then test with the palm of the hand for printing. wipe clean, dry and strong support o the surface inch. Wipe the stain with a clean cloth and check printing. If everything is visible, curing the room longer. It takes more time for the drops and sags etc. become completely dry because of the thickness of varnish on them to always test if the finish is soft thick spots.
3. When these defects are dried, they can be sanded with sandpaper No. 320, well lubricated with water. It is best to sand down a thick default only halfway and then washed and dried and let it dry for a few days. This avoids the need to remove all finish and start over.
Sanding between coats
When more than one coating layer is applied, each layer should be lightly sanded before the next is applied. This is done with sandpaper # 400 wet seal used. Always sand with the grain parallel with light pressure only. Use a sanding block padded. This will help shave the high points. When the sanding is completed, dust b wiping with a tack rag before applying the next layer.
SATIN
This finish is the most favorite of all for the final finish. You can get a satin finish by sanding a gloss dried or simply using a satin varnish. If you decide to rub a gloss down to a satin sheen, here's how.
1. Very lightly with sand 8/0 to 10/0 wet paper finishing or dry, lubricated with water.
2. Rubbing the surface with 3/0 steel wool with the grain until the desired brightness.
3. It is best to polish finish. Two coats are the best ....
Most paints are now made of synthetic resins - alkyd, phenolic, vinyl or urethane - that dry quickly enough to form a hard surface that resists wear rough. Alkyd resins are the best for the work of the unit. Phenolic compounds, often called spar varnish, we are mainly used for outdoor. Polyurethanes are extremely hard and better for situations of wear such as floors and bar tops. Vinyls are soft and wont rub well. Avoid them and by all means, do not buy a cheap varnish. A cheap notes will never lead to a good long finish.
BRUSHING LACQUER
Although brushing is the most difficult of all brush, with practice you can master the technique. Rub and polish can eliminate most blemishes and help achieve a good finish despite less-than-perfect brush. Varnish must be routed on a surface with a brush with thin, even coats. It is important to have a good brush for painting. There are specially designed brushes or use a varnish. If workers inexperienced in applying nail follow the instructions in their first jobs, they will soon qualify for work.Instructions precision brushing varnishes are as follows:
1. Never paint in wet weather or on surfaces that are not completely dry.
2. The room and varnishes should be 70 degrees F or more. If the room is colder than 70 degrees, you can put the unopened in hot water for about an hour before using box.
3. Surfaces must be completely free of dust. Wipe with a clean, lint, and remove dust from cracks etc. with a clean, dry brush and wipe cloth again. Finally wipe with a tack cloth to remove any dust or lint before applying the varnish.
4. Never shake varnish before removing the cover. This will cause the formation of small bubbles that will be detrimental to a smooth coat. Hold the can in his hand and rotate slowly back and forth to mix the paint. After some of the varnish has been removed from the box, place the lid loose on the box to prevent evaporation.
5. Varnish hardens quickly. When it thickens to a point where it does not flow easily from the brush, it should be diluted as directed on the label. Be sure it is well mixed.
6. A brush should be prepared for use before starting work by dipping into the varnish and work back and forth on its own to distribute the varnish evenly through hair document.
7. Never dip the brush in the paint more than a third of its length and apply liberally with a minimum of brush strokes. Not remove excess coating from the brush bristles by dragging through the flange of the box. This will cause bubbles to form in the varnish and it will be almost impossible to get a smooth finish. Instead of using a cup or a small can to remove excess polish before applying it to the surface
8. When brushing coating, apply only a moderate amount of pressure on the handle. Do not bend the bristles. Apply with parallel lines, against the brush-stroke immediately perpendicular to the original direction. Finish by rubbing lightly with hair, using a dry brush and work almost in parallel to the grain only. This eliminates brush strokes and will produce a uniform surface appearance. The first coat of paint should be brushed with very thin coats and later should not be sent out.
9. On horizontal surfaces, the paint is put on very little brush. Betting on a single area of about 6-8 inches at a time, working from the unfinished to the finished surface and taking about two strokes. Then hold the brush up, going slightly over the surface to smooth and eliminate bubbles.
10. On vertical surfaces, the procedure is different to avoid the hollow on the finish line. Work an area of about 6 square inches. Use short, quick strokes and other surface by brushing halfway and halfway if the brush is lifted from the surface in the central part e.
DRYING painted area
In any case, a painted surface should be rubbed with any type of abrasive until it is completely dry. If the surface is rubbed until it is completely dry, the result will be disastrous. For best results, please follow these instructions to drought.
1. For best results, the first thin layer should be given a minimum drying time of 24 hours, 48 hours for the second and 3 to 5 days for the third and final layer.
2. Test with a thumbnail to check the hardness. If the test is difficult then test with the palm of the hand for printing. wipe clean, dry and strong support o the surface inch. Wipe the stain with a clean cloth and check printing. If everything is visible, curing the room longer. It takes more time for the drops and sags etc. become completely dry because of the thickness of varnish on them to always test if the finish is soft thick spots.
3. When these defects are dried, they can be sanded with sandpaper No. 320, well lubricated with water. It is best to sand down a thick default only halfway and then washed and dried and let it dry for a few days. This avoids the need to remove all finish and start over.
Sanding between coats
When more than one coating layer is applied, each layer should be lightly sanded before the next is applied. This is done with sandpaper # 400 wet seal used. Always sand with the grain parallel with light pressure only. Use a sanding block padded. This will help shave the high points. When the sanding is completed, dust b wiping with a tack rag before applying the next layer.
SATIN
This finish is the most favorite of all for the final finish. You can get a satin finish by sanding a gloss dried or simply using a satin varnish. If you decide to rub a gloss down to a satin sheen, here's how.
1. Very lightly with sand 8/0 to 10/0 wet paper finishing or dry, lubricated with water.
2. Rubbing the surface with 3/0 steel wool with the grain until the desired brightness.
3. It is best to polish finish. Two coats are the best ....