Removing varnish of a door

Removing varnish of a door

Removing varnish wood usually is not difficult . Withdrawal from a door is a completely different story. If you have an input solid wood that has been exposed to the elements for a few years (2-5) door, you are probably looking at a door with a faded or clouded over.

This article is not to strip a door down to wood, wood restoration , correct surface damage . I'm talking about your old worn out door .

First, you must go to the local hardware store . Pick up a few things while you 're there.

220 grit paper
400 + sandpaper
Fine / Super fine steel wool
Dress Tack
mineral Spirits
Shop clothes or paper towels if you wish
I'll say it now , stripping , re-coloring and finishing of a door of the original or even re- varnish / polyurethane to the wood is a major work. I'll post later if you are interested in it , or you can leave a comment below .

OK. Now that you have the tools , lets take stock of the door. Will you end up on the hinges or will you remove the hinges and do it well ?

If you do it correctly , you should get a " door of the shop " to take the place of the door as you remove it will take a minimum of 24 hours if you're just trying to update the exterior finish .

I'll give you the right way to do it , although the same applies if you leave it hanging on the hinges . The difference is that you will have a poor finish because gravity will pull the finish and expose the details in the sanding you have done . Installing a flat door allows for leveling arrival .

Go buy high quality polyurethane or some - SPAR VARNISH , and after years in the business , I'll just remind you buy cheap , cheap expect . I know it is green using water-based products , but the responsible use of a varnish finish base oil is actually less impact on the environment because you only to finish, but every five years in relation to each year. Think .

Lets get down to business , here are the steps in order quickly :

Sand the door with a sander or hand sander block with 220 grit sandpaper . MAKE SURE you sand grain . Wipe it with mineral spirits and remove as much dirt as possible.

Change the 220 ​​to 400 grain + grain. Sand smooth your previous work and sand with the grain. Wipe it with mineral spirits and remove as much dirt as possible.

Change for 440 + grain steel wool . Sand smooth your previous work and sand with the grain. Wipe it with mineral spirits and remove as much dirt as possible.

Wipe the door again with mineral spirits . Let dry and take a tack cloth to pick up all the other dirt left on the door. Did I mention that you must be in a windless environment when you do this ? Not much to ensure that you are.

Number of Coat- must be applied with a high quality brush . I do not care if you want to save ten buck on a cheap brush. Go ahead, you'll be sorry because hair will loosen the paint and you will have a spaghetti finish.

Applying the coating on the first thick layer. You are in a free country, dust free environment right? That dry night , devil, go 48 hours. If you apply thick , it needs time to heal .

When you are ready for the second layer , pull the steel wool. This is essential . You had dust in your area ? YEP . Go lightly on the finish and the sand on all these points. You'll see. You do not have to remove them completely, but the steel wool on them. Reapplying another coat of varnish / poly. Repeat once more .

Final layer should "fix" smooth. If you were Porte Smart , now you have to hang your door.

You just refinished a door.