Wood preparation for the opening
Oil varnish waterproof feature should not be applied to furniture, because they dry too slowly, too soft, lack high luster, and do not rub well. furniture finishers prefer short oil varnishes because they dry fast and hard and have a brilliant shine. The problem of wood finish is first choosing a suitable varnish. The wood finish is experienced especially on or varnish brushes used in the broadcast. A brush of the correct size, with all good hair medium stiffness, should be selected. Either flat or oval brushes can be used.
Oval brushes are preferable for large areas where large brushfuls varnish are needed for fast work. An old brush that was used with paint or shellac is not satisfactory. Even a new high quality brush ", located in the rubber," requires a preliminary treatment before it is ready to be used on a final coat of varnish to work. A new toothbrush should be dust and loose hairs removed before it is suitable for any type of varnish wood surface, whether the advice frieze bar rail molding or wood frames.
It is best to use a brush to work undercoat for a while, until all loose hairs are removed or fall. Then, after a thorough cleaning in turpentine, it is ready for finishing. All surfaces must be examined to see if they are dry before varnishing is begun. The problem is almost certain to follow if you apply a second coat on a partially dried undercoat. Dusting and cleaning of the object to be coated just before the opening is started is very important that the amateur can overlook operations.
The dust is settling continuously and must be removed just before the release of varnish. If there is a lot of dust on furniture or any other object to be painted, it is best to take the item away from the paint room for dust to prevent dust dispersion in air the finishing room, because some of it is very likely to settle on a newly painted surface and spoil the finish, especially on a piece of specialty wood for fireplace designs, toppers designer window bar or rail molding.
After removing the loose dust with a dusting brush, surfaces should be cleaned with a piece of gauze or a damp chamois skin. A piece of muslin or gauze may be dampened with gasoline or turpentine to clean a surface that has an undercoat on it, or a "tack cloth" can be made without absorbing cloth dust and lint under a very thin veneer. Such a "tack-rag" if almost dry, will take all the dust and leave a surface ready for painting.
All fragments of sand and dust must be removed in cracks, corners and pockets in the wood cells, or the waste particles will be driven by the flow of the brush and paint will spoil another perfect finite set senior designer shaped windows, wedges or frieze boards. Old surfaces to be re-varnished must be thoroughly washed in moderately strong soapy water, then rinsed and wiped, preferably with a chamois cloth dampened with clean water.
After washing and drying, all the old painted surfaces should be sanded with fine sandpaper, which also removes the gloss. Then they must be carefully dusted and wiped to make them clean and dust free. Old wax finishes or surfaces that have been treated with a varnish remover containing wax must be properly cleaned with gasoline, turpentine, or even high-test gasoline. These surfaces should be cleaned after treatment with waxsolvents to remove all traces of wax.
New lacquer films does not adhere satisfactorily to surfaces with even a small amount or a very thin layer of wax on them. The finishing room and wood finishing `s clothing should be as dust-free as possible. Sometimes the floors in the rooms are finished sprinkled with water to lay the dust. The rooms must be dry, however, because not dry well on humid days varnish. When the weather is humid or rainy windows should be closed. Ventilation air stream is not desirable because the fresh air contributes to the oxidation of drying oils in the paint, and accelerates the evaporation of solvents and diluents.
The temperature of a room opening during the winter should be between 70 ° C and 80 ° C, and certainly never below 60 ° C., because hot varnish spreads more satisfactory. If varnish was seriously cooled by exposure to cold, it must be warmed by placing the container in warm water, and then strained, especially if it is not properly mixed or separated into its original ingredients to some extent.
Varnish should not be diluted by the finish, because manufacturers have much thinner in the mixture as it will stand still and give satisfactory service. If you need a thin veneer, you can place the container in hot water or a small amount of turpentine. If diluent is added to a varnish, you must wait at least twelve hours for the ingredients can be mixed well .....
Oil varnish waterproof feature should not be applied to furniture, because they dry too slowly, too soft, lack high luster, and do not rub well. furniture finishers prefer short oil varnishes because they dry fast and hard and have a brilliant shine. The problem of wood finish is first choosing a suitable varnish. The wood finish is experienced especially on or varnish brushes used in the broadcast. A brush of the correct size, with all good hair medium stiffness, should be selected. Either flat or oval brushes can be used.
Oval brushes are preferable for large areas where large brushfuls varnish are needed for fast work. An old brush that was used with paint or shellac is not satisfactory. Even a new high quality brush ", located in the rubber," requires a preliminary treatment before it is ready to be used on a final coat of varnish to work. A new toothbrush should be dust and loose hairs removed before it is suitable for any type of varnish wood surface, whether the advice frieze bar rail molding or wood frames.
It is best to use a brush to work undercoat for a while, until all loose hairs are removed or fall. Then, after a thorough cleaning in turpentine, it is ready for finishing. All surfaces must be examined to see if they are dry before varnishing is begun. The problem is almost certain to follow if you apply a second coat on a partially dried undercoat. Dusting and cleaning of the object to be coated just before the opening is started is very important that the amateur can overlook operations.
The dust is settling continuously and must be removed just before the release of varnish. If there is a lot of dust on furniture or any other object to be painted, it is best to take the item away from the paint room for dust to prevent dust dispersion in air the finishing room, because some of it is very likely to settle on a newly painted surface and spoil the finish, especially on a piece of specialty wood for fireplace designs, toppers designer window bar or rail molding.
After removing the loose dust with a dusting brush, surfaces should be cleaned with a piece of gauze or a damp chamois skin. A piece of muslin or gauze may be dampened with gasoline or turpentine to clean a surface that has an undercoat on it, or a "tack cloth" can be made without absorbing cloth dust and lint under a very thin veneer. Such a "tack-rag" if almost dry, will take all the dust and leave a surface ready for painting.
All fragments of sand and dust must be removed in cracks, corners and pockets in the wood cells, or the waste particles will be driven by the flow of the brush and paint will spoil another perfect finite set senior designer shaped windows, wedges or frieze boards. Old surfaces to be re-varnished must be thoroughly washed in moderately strong soapy water, then rinsed and wiped, preferably with a chamois cloth dampened with clean water.
After washing and drying, all the old painted surfaces should be sanded with fine sandpaper, which also removes the gloss. Then they must be carefully dusted and wiped to make them clean and dust free. Old wax finishes or surfaces that have been treated with a varnish remover containing wax must be properly cleaned with gasoline, turpentine, or even high-test gasoline. These surfaces should be cleaned after treatment with waxsolvents to remove all traces of wax.
New lacquer films does not adhere satisfactorily to surfaces with even a small amount or a very thin layer of wax on them. The finishing room and wood finishing `s clothing should be as dust-free as possible. Sometimes the floors in the rooms are finished sprinkled with water to lay the dust. The rooms must be dry, however, because not dry well on humid days varnish. When the weather is humid or rainy windows should be closed. Ventilation air stream is not desirable because the fresh air contributes to the oxidation of drying oils in the paint, and accelerates the evaporation of solvents and diluents.
The temperature of a room opening during the winter should be between 70 ° C and 80 ° C, and certainly never below 60 ° C., because hot varnish spreads more satisfactory. If varnish was seriously cooled by exposure to cold, it must be warmed by placing the container in warm water, and then strained, especially if it is not properly mixed or separated into its original ingredients to some extent.
Varnish should not be diluted by the finish, because manufacturers have much thinner in the mixture as it will stand still and give satisfactory service. If you need a thin veneer, you can place the container in hot water or a small amount of turpentine. If diluent is added to a varnish, you must wait at least twelve hours for the ingredients can be mixed well .....